Vacation on Curaçao,
the Jewel of the Dutch Caribbean

Text and photographs by
Ralph Selitzer, Editor and Publisher

When I tell people that my wife and I had a fabulous Caribbean vacation on the island of Curaçao they ask “Why Curaçao?” Because Curaçao combines the best of climate, relaxing beaches, water sports, culture, eco-tourism, history, and the finest concentration of restaurants probably anywhere in the world. Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao and the Netherlands Antilles is one of UNESCO's World Heritage cities and one of the richest cities in the world in terms of culture and diversity.

YOU’LL NEVER GET BORED

I was talking with a doctor friend the other day who had just spent a week in the Caribbean. He said he was bored after a couple of days. On a Curaçao vacation you’ll never get bored because you can never experience all this island has to offer. Here’s a brief overview of Curaçao and my personal experiences during a seven-day trip in May 2003.

LOCATION & CLIMATE

Curaçao is the largest of the Netherlands Antilles—38 miles long and from 2 to 7.5 miles wide. Located outside the hurricane belt, Curaçao is in the southwestern Caribbean between Aruba and Bonaire and just 35 miles north of Venezuela, and only 2-1/2 miles from Miami. You can almost always expect dry, warm, idyllic weather. The average daytime temperature is 82° Fahrenheit (28° Celcuis). The humidity is about 77%, while the constant trade winds provide a pleasant cooling breeze year round. The rainy season, October to February, is marked by brief, occasional showers, usually at night, and continued sunny weather by day. Curaçao is so dry that all the water for vegetation comes from deep wells. For human consumption pure and delicious water is distilled from seawater.

GETTING THERE

Daily non-stop flights are available on American Airlines and Air ALM from Miami with connections to all major U.S. gateway cities. Air Jamaica (partnered with Delta) flies from New York’s JFK with a connection from Montego Bay. KLM has non-stop daily flights direct from Amsterdam.

WHERE TO STAY

Most hotels and lodges are located along Piscadera Bay within a few miles of Willemstad. You can choose from small European-style, exclusive hotels such as the Avila Beach (599/9-461-1493) or Curaçao’s only four-star hotel—Marriott Beach Resort & Emerald Casino (800-223-6388; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/curmc-curacao-marriott-beach-resort-and-emerald-casino). Located on a private crescent beach on Piscadera Bay, the Marriott is only four miles from Willemstad and provides free shuttle service daily. The Marriott captures the best of Curaçao's old-Amsterdam charm and sun-drenched warmth, providing for an unforgettable luxury Caribbean beach resort experience. Its 6 oceanfront acres provide restful views and lush tropical gardens. Curaçao offers endless white-sand beaches and extraordinary coral reefs, making it a perfect Caribbean vacation destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The adjacent World Trade Center in Curaçao has over 27,000 sq ft of space for business meetings and social events. When darkness falls try your luck at the Emerald Curaçao Casino, with its variety of traditional gaming options. Among the excellent dining options is the Portofino Restaurant, which specializes in local dishes and fresh seafood. The water sports center rents kayaks and offers snorkeling and diving.

CURRENCY

The national currency is the Netherlands Antillean guilder, also called the Florin (stable at US$=NAFI. 1.77 for cash). However, dollars are accepted and instantly converted everywhere so there is no need to change to the guilder.

	The National Archives of the Netherlands Antilles

HISTORY

Before its discovery in 1499 by Spanish navigator Alonso de Ojeda, Curaçao was inhabited by the Arawak Indians. One of Columbus' lieutenants, de Ojeda dealt in commerce including the slave trade. The Dutch took possession of the island in 1634 and established a trading settlement at a fine natural harbor which developed into the town of Willemstad. With two brief intermissions of British occupation in the early 1800's, Curaçao has been part of the Netherlands for most of its history.

The tiny island has been connected with many important historical figures including Amerigo Vespucci, Simon Bolivar, Captain Bligh and Peter Stuyvesant. Stuyvesant was governor of Curaçao in 1645 when he was appointed governor of the island of New Amsterdam, the future New York City.

Today Curaçao is a parliamentary democracy and the seat of government for the Netherlands Antilles which includes Curaçao, Bonaire, St. Eustatius, and St. Maarten.

CURAÇAO ECONOMY

Tourism is only one pillar of Curaçao’s diversified economy. On Curaçao is one of the largest oil refineries in the world with production of more than 225,000 barrels of crude oil daily. Curaçao also has the largest non-military drydock in the hemisphere. One of the several local industries is Amstel Beer which is made from distilled water and Curaçao liquor.

All industry, I should add, is located strategically so that the constant tradewinds and ocean currents carry any evidence of industrialism out to sea leaving Curaçao with the purest air and water in the Caribbean.

THE PEOPLE

Curaçao's population of about 160,000 is a rich mix of over 50 cultures and nationalities. Most are of African and/or European descent. Contributing to the ethnic harmony is a melting pot of faiths including Anglican, Jewish, Muslim, Protestant, Mormon and the predominant religion, Roman Catholic.

The people are knowledgeable and cultured, and eager to share and help you experience their island. Dutch is the island's official language, however, most people speak and read four languages—English, Spanish, Dutch and Papiamentu (a combination of Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, French, African and Arawak Indian dialect). 

I was surprised at the facility with which the locals switch languages. During our tour of the Ostrich Farm our amiable guide spoke Papiamentu to his staff and English on the tour. However there was a group from the Netherlands and he gingerly switched to Dutch which prompted me to ask, “I thought this was an English-speaking tour?” Then of course he bounced back and forth between both tongues. I am lingering on this point because you will find that the education and sophistication of the people of Curaçao will greatly enhance your interaction with them and contribute to a very enjoyable stay.

GETTING AROUND

Curaçao may be a small island but getting around can be tricky. If you have a good sense of direction you can successfully drive, especially around the capital area of Willemstad. Most shoreline diving sites can be reached easily by car. However, do consider taking an organized tour when wandering into the country side and especially when visiting the west country and Christoffel Park. Even our tour guide made an occasional wrong turn.

Consider using taxis. They're really not expensive. For example, taxi fares average $20 from the airport and about $12 to most destinations around Willemstad. Also many hotels provide shuttle service to downtown Willemstad and sites around the capital.

BEACHES, DIVING, SNORKELING, SAILING, ETC.

With 38 miles of shoreline and more than 12 miles of protected coral reefs Curaçao is truly the beach-going, scuba diving and snorkeling capital of the Caribbean. Almost all of the swimming beaches are scattered along the sheltered southwestern coast, where the waters are generally calm and crystal clear. The reefs surrounding the island are home to hundreds of species of crabs, fishes, anemones, sponges, corals, etc. In many places they look like beautiful gardens. Curaçao offers many exciting diving and wind-surfing adventures on several nearby islands. Specifically, Bonaire, which is only about 30 minutes, and Klein Curaçao, about two hours away. (www.Curacao-travelguide.com) 

GOLF

Blue Bay Golf & Beach Resort offers an exciting experience. The 18-hole AAA championship course is ranked among the top 50 in the world. Some of the holes are located alongside the sea, on cliffs or within the plantation. Drinks and snacks are available in the main building near the driving range and near the putting greens. Book tee-time and golf-carts by phone. Shuttle service is also available from many of the hotels. (599/9-868-1755) 

SHOPPING

Curaçao is a hub for island shopping with many bargains in jewelry, handicrafts, cameras, etc. The shopping is not duty-free but is “duty-relaxed” meaning the shopkeepers pay low duty. Since there is no sales tax, you should be able to get some fairly good deals. Best bargains are in international luxury goods as Brazilian and Argentine leather, Portuguese embroidery and lace, Spanish shawls, Irish linen, French perfume and fine jewelry and watches. Delft porcelain and fine crystal can also be found. Shopping hours are generally from Monday to Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to noon and 2:00 - 6:00 p.m., and when the cruise ships are in. Banking hours are Monday to Friday, 8:00 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.

CURAÇAO DINING EXPERIENCE 

Dining in Curaçao is the most exciting culinary adventure my wife and I have ever experienced. The blend of over 50 ethnic cultures is expressed in Curaçao’s cuisine. Restaurants serve everything from local and Caribbean dishes to fine exotic cuisine from Indonesia, India, Latin America, France, etc.

Most restaurants are located in and around Willemstad and probably minutes away from your hotel. The Big Red Restaurant Guide (available by contacting www.Curacao-tourism.com) makes it easy to select an eatery. The guide is color-keyed to the type of cuisine and includes pictures, descriptions and price information on 70 top restaurants. At your hotel pick up a copy of the Menu, Dining & Entertainment Guide which provides complete menus and prices of selected restaurants.

The culinary journey through Curaçao starts with authentic Curaçao dishes. For the real Curaçao experience have lunch at the Old Marshe (“old market”) in the central Willemstad. Local "Kuminda Krioyo" specialties in generous portions are cooked over red hot coals before you. Sample Funchi, (a polenta-like dish), Piska Hasa (Curaçaon style red snapper), Komkomber Stoba (cucumber stew) and Keshi Yena (gouda cheese stuffed with meat and or fish). (599/9-461-1170)

Another interesting restaurant great for lunch when visiting the western part of Curaçao, is Jaanchi’s where you can try Iguana Stew. Less exotic is a variety of conch, shellfish, chicken, potato and plantain salad. For dessert, enjoy delicious coconut or rum-raisin ice cream. If you are lucky the owner will sing the menu to you. While dining you will enjoy watching the exotic birds that are attracted by the sugar snacks set out for them. (599/9-864-0126)

For evening fine dining offering dramatic views of Curaçao and the Caribbean I recommend these restaurants:

Belle Terrace — located in the Avila Beach Hotel, a charming European-style hotel that was built as a governor’s mansion in 1780. Chamber music is offered in the concert hall. Watch the spectacular sunset accompanied by live jazz performances on the pier. Check for schedules. (www.avilahotel.com / 599/9-461-4377)

Fort Nassau — Magnificent views of Curaçao and Piscadera Bay, especially at sunset, are seen from this authentic 18th-century fort-turned-restaurant. Here you'll find sophisticated Caribbean and European seafood specialties. My wife and I enjoyed the Black & White Sesame Seed-laced Shrimp on Pickle Green Papaya Strips, Island Chips and Cumin Szechuan drizzle. (www.curacao.com / 599/9-461-3450)

Bistro Le Clochard — Located in Riffort Village, another converted fort, provides excellent views of Santa Anna Bay and Willemstad. You can watch the oceangoing freighters and cruise ships pass on the channel near the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge. The village is now home to art galleries and boutiques and well worth a visit. The French/Swiss cuisine offers a true continental menu. We recommend the Lamb Chops with a Lemon-Ginger Sauce and Chocolate Mousse made with Suisse Toberlone chocolate. (www.bistroleclochard.com / 599/9-462-5667)

NIGHTLIFE

Evenings on the island are pleasantly balmy thanks to the ever-present trade winds. Most hotels, restaurants, pubs and casinos have "happy hours" and are air conditioned. Hotels have a full calendar of evening events. For an array of casinos, nightclubs, pubs/bars, and a movie theater, visit www.curacao-tourism.com and click on "nightlife."

FESTIVALS

Hopefully you can plan to vacation in Curaçao during one of the major festivals, for example: 

• Carnival season, January-February

• Annual Curaçao Regatta (late January/early February) — the perfect combination of competitive sailing, tropical weather and hot nightlife. (www.curacaoregatta.com)

• Annual Curaçao Jazz Festival in late May — A two-day jazz extravaganza organized by the Curaçao Jazz Foundation, and drawing top international performers as well as local talents. (www.curacaojazz.com)

• Curaçao International Salsa Festival in early August (www.curacaosalsafestival.com)

For a full listing of happenings, visit www.curacao-tourism.com and click on "Calendar of Events." 

READY FOR SIGHTSEEING

Curaçao is an island vibrant with things to see and do. Sightseeing is separated into two basic areas: Willemstad, the capital bustling with shopping, museums, restaurants, cafes. Outside of Willemstad to the west is the vast Christoffel natural park, caves, diving sites, ostrich farm, old plantations and endless places for adventure.

WILLEMSTAD – A WORLD HERITAGE CITY

In 1997 UNESCO recognized Willemstad, the Dutch Caribbean’s capital, as a World Heritage city because of its perfectly preserved historic buildings dating back to the 17th century. Willemstad has joined a selection of world sites including Vatican City, The Great Wall of China and the Taj Mahal.

	Restored slave quarters

Since Curaçao is out of the hurricane belt, hundreds of structures dating back to the 1600s have survived. Culturally Curaçao has been shaped by the intensive exchange of cultural elements between Northern Europeans, Iberians and Africans. A colorful urban architecture and a specific town structure developed in Willemstad. The modern town consists of several distinct historic districts whose architecture reflects not only European urban-planning concepts but also styles from the Netherlands and from the Spanish and Portuguese colonial towns with which Willemstad engaged in trade. The structures combine Dutch influence modified to fit the Caribbean climate such as verandas, porches, fretwork and shutters.

Gov. Peter Stuyvesant suffered from migraine headaches, which he attributed to the sun reflecting off the town's white-painted buildings. He ordered the residents to paint them any other color. The brilliant pastels are the result. Even the restored slave quarters have pastel roofs and shutters. Currently there are over 750 pastel-colored restored buildings, and an ongoing program to reclaim many more buildings that have been abandoned. 

When visiting Willemstad note the various distinctive areas. Punda, dating from the 17th century, is the main part of town and reflects the Dutch character. Otrabanda (the other side of Anna Bay) has a distinctive indigenous Creole atmosphere. The two parts of town are linked by the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge, the world’s largest floating pedestrian bridge. Built in 1888, the “Swinging Lady” is 700 feet long and swings open to about a 45-degree angle about 30 times a day to allow oceangoing vessels to pass through St. Anna Bay. Watching the attendants loosen the bridge's moorings so it can swing—with pedestrians still on the bridge—is quite a sight. Ferry boats are provided when the bridge is unavailable for foot traffic.

The socio-cultural history is also reflected in the outskirts of Willemstad where you will find eight forts and more than 90 plantations, 80 of which qualify as “monuments.”

WILLEMSTAD TROLLEY TRAIN TOUR

Willemstad Trolley Train Tour — The best way to be introduced to Willemstad is this 1-1/4 hour, expertly-narrated tour that passes many of the historic sites including the Floating Market, Mikvé Israel Synagogue, Queen Wilhelmina Park, Waterford Arches and Fort Amsterdam. Schedules vary depending upon cruise ship arrivals. Fare is $16 for adults and $12 for children between two and 12. Phone for reservations. (599/9-462-8833) 

	African sculpture at Kúra Hulanda Museum

KÚRA HULANDA ("Dutch Courtyard") MUSEUM & HOTEL

Plan to spend at least one afternoon visiting the Kúra Hulanda Museum. Opened in 1999, this anthropological museum, dealing with the origins of civilization, is the brainchild of Jacob Gelt Dekker who restored the Kúra Hulanda area. Its most unusual feature is a wing dedicated to the history of slavery. It is situated at the city center harbor of Willemstad on the actual site where Dutch entrepreneurs once traded and shipped African slaves along with other “commercial goods.” The museum impressively exhibits the worldwide trans-Atlantic slave trade in its totality from the capture of Africans through the Middle Passage and relocation in the New World. Highlights include the slave yard and the surrounding huts, the hull of a slave ship where Africans were kept, and artifacts of slavery and prejudice throughout the world. Museum hours are 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. daily. (www.kurahulanda.com / 599/9-462-1400)

The entire Kúra Hulanda area is resplendent with 17th-century restored pastel-colored buildings. After visiting the museum, stroll through the garden of contemporary sculptures by island artists, enjoy refreshments in the courtyard and, in the early evening, be treated to an impromptu jazz recital by local musicians. Visit the landmark Kúra Hulanda Hotel housed in 17th century “monuments.”

Be sure to stay for dinner at the Astrolab Observatory Restaurant serving contemporary continental gourmet cuisine both indoors and al fresco. The restaurant is named for the world-class collection of astrolabs on display nearby. Or choose the Jaipur Indian Restaurant nestled atop the eco-pool overlooking the lush grounds and surrounding pond. Much of the décor was imported from a Maharajah’s palace in India and reassembled into a fabulous garden. The excellent Tandoori cuisine matches the beautiful ambience.

OTHER HIGHLIGHTS OF WILLEMSTAD

Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue – Founded in 1651 by 12 Jewish families from Amsterdam, it is the oldest continuously-used synagogue in the western hemisphere. An interesting feature is the carpet of sand that symbolizes the desert traveled by the Israelites on their long journey to freedom. An adjacent museum displays artifacts dating back to the 17th century. A small entrance fee is charged for upkeep. Orthodox services are held every Shabbat & holiday eve at 6:30 and 10:00 the next morning. Tie and jacket are required. (www.snoa.com / 599/9-461-1967)

The Floating Market – Schooners tie up along the Waaigat Canal to sell fresh fish, tropical fruits, produce, spices, handicrafts and more under colorful canopies. The vessels arrive daily from Venezuela, Colombia and other West Indian islands.

The Curaçao Museum – This spacious building, dating to 1853, is a showcase of works by traditional as well as contemporary local and foreign artists. Antique maps of Curaçao and the Caribbean, Indian art and an impressive collection of mahogany furniture from the 18th century are also on display. (599/9-462-3873) 

Other worthwhile museums include the Maritime Museum, Postal Museum, Fort Church Museum and the Numismatic Museum. Plus, you can explore seven fascinating forts that protected Curaçao, most dating back to the 17th century.

BEYOND WILLEMSTAD

Curaçao offers several excursion destinations that are well worth your visit.

	The author with an ostrich chick

Curaçao Ostrich and Game Farm — Here’s your opportunity to visit a working/breeding ostrich farm and even hold an ostrich egg and a day-old chick. Take the wagon tour ($10) around the farm that includes the breeding areas and baby ostrich pens. A restaurant serves ostrich meat. There is also an interesting shop featuring sculpture and objects from Africa. (599/9-747-2777)

Curaçao Seaquarium – Featured are more than 600 native marine species including fish, crabs lobster, sea lions, sharks and stingrays plus colorful sponges and coral. A sunken ship has been converted into an underwater observatory that allows close-up views of sea life. And there is a delightful dolphin show that emphasizes understanding dolphins, not just the usual spectacular tricks of which there are many. The Seaquarium's Dolphin Academy offers a variety of interaction programs designed for people with varying swimming skills. For example you can swim with dolphins in shallow water for $49 or participate in advanced swimming programs for $159. Hotel pickups are only $15 extra. (599/9-461-6666)

Senior Curaçao Liqueur Factory – Here you can see how Curaçao Liqueur is made from the bitter oranges produced in the island’s arid climate. The factory still uses the original secret recipe and original distilling equipment. Tours are offered and guests can sample and purchase the liqueur in uniquely shaped bottles as well as in clay miniatures. (599/9-461-3526)

Grotten Van Hato (Hato Caves) – These limestone caves were formed below sea level millions of years ago. They were actually coral reefs which emerged out of the water during the Ice Age to form the island of Curaçao. The Hato Caves are "living caves," which means that the stalactites and stalagmites are still active. The one-hour guided tour ($6.25) shows you beautiful limestone formations, romantic pools, a waterfall, and the famous Madonna statue. Native Indians used the caves as shelter and a burial place. They left flint tools and engravings, and iguanas, which are an attraction of the park around the cave. Also, a colony of rare long nose bats lives in the caves. (599/9-868-0379)

Den Paradera (The Herb Garden) — A visit to this herb garden, and interpretive center of the island’s natural medicine is a must if you are interested in natural remedies. Dinah Veeris, the guru of herbs grown in Curaçao and surrounding islands, will personally escort you through her farm and tell you all about herbs and their curative powers. The herbs are bottled and sold throughout the islands. She will also autograph a copy of her book, Green Remedies and Golden Cures of Our Ancestors, originally written in Papiamentu and translated into English. (599/9-767-5608)

	Christoffel National Park

Christoffel National Park and western Curaçao – At Curaçao’s highest point, on the western end of the island, is Christoffel National Park, a protected 4,500-acre wildlife preserve and botanical garden. The park is a sanctuary for wildlife such as iguanas, rabbits, donkeys, several species of birds and about 200 small, whitetail Curaçao deer. At the entrance of the park is the Savonet Plantation House which contains the new Museum of Natural and Cultural History. You can explore the park on foot, horseback, mountain bike, or car. Guided deer-watching sessions are offered. Cave excursions, moon walks, slide shows, video shows, and bird and animal presentations are also offered. The park has its own ranch, Rancho Alfin, and offers guided tours on horseback ranging from one hour to the entire day trip including “sunrise” and “moonlight” trips. Even inexperienced riders and children over six can participate. (599/9-864 0535)

While Christoffel Park is worthwhile seeing any time of the year, it is much more rewarding during the “wet” season in winter when morning showers cause the cactus and other desert plants to bloom. 

IN SUMMARY

How much time would one need to spend in Curaçao to experience it all? I wouldn't venture a guess. As I said, you’ll never get bored!

For more information on Curaçao visit www.Curacao-tourism.com and www.Curacao-travelguide.com.